How to Test a Heating Element With a Multimeter
Before you replace a heating element, confirm it’s actually the problem. A multimeter does this in under a minute. Here’s how.
Always disconnect and lock out power first, and disconnect at least one element lead so you’re not reading through the rest of the circuit.
Test 1: Continuity
Set your multimeter to continuity (the sound-wave symbol) or the lowest resistance setting.
- Touch one probe to each element terminal.
- A beep / low reading = good (current can flow through the coil).
- No beep / “OL” = failed (the coil is broken internally).
Test 2: Resistance (ohms)
For a number, set the meter to ohms (Ω) and read across the terminals.
- A working element reads a low, specific resistance (often a few to a few dozen ohms, depending on wattage and voltage).
- OL / infinite means an open (broken) element.
- Near zero can indicate a short.
You can sanity-check the reading: Resistance ≈ Volts² ÷ Watts.
Test 3: Ground fault
Touch one probe to a terminal and the other to the element’s metal sheath or frame. You want no continuity here — continuity to ground means the element is shorted and unsafe.
If it’s failed
Confirmed open or shorted? Send us the make and model and we’ll match a replacement shipped across Canada.
Related guides
- 240V vs. 208V Heating Elements: Why Voltage Matters
- DIY vs. Hiring an HVAC Contractor for Element Replacement
- Heat Pump vs. Electric Furnace: Heating Costs in Canada
Need a replacement element? We ship across Canada and build custom elements for hard-to-find equipment.